Corset Revival by Morgan Blackledge

Artist name: Morgan Blackledge

Social media: https://www.instagram.com/blackledgemorgan/

Short introduction

I am a third year fashion design student at Liverpool John Moores University.

Describe your corset in one sentence:

Go for the female gaze.

The story behind the corset:

This piece explores up-cycling and sustainable design through the reinvention of a traditional corset. Historically, the corset functioned as a tool to shape and control women’s bodies, often designed to appeal to the male gaze. With this project, I aimed to challenge that purpose by maintaining the recognisable structure of a corset while deconstructing, altering, and reassembling it to create a new narrative—one rooted in self-expression, resistance, and freedom.

The making process involved physically deconstructing an existing corset and reusing the removed materials in the reimagined garment. This up-cycling approach ensured that no fabric went to waste, reinforcing sustainability as a central value of the design. Scraps of fabric from both the original corset and materials I already owned were pieced together using a patchwork technique, allowing the garment to visibly display its reconstruction. Rather than disguising the process, the exposed seams and layered textures celebrate individuality, transformation, and the rejection of perfection.

The design is influenced by Michaela Stark, Vivienne Westwood, and the character of the Mad Hatter. Michaela Stark’s work was particularly impactful due to her approach to corsetry as a method of reclaiming the female body. Stark often incorporates cut-outs, exaggerated silhouettes, rope, and unconventional shaping to challenge societal expectations of femininity. Her work deliberately avoids the male gaze, presenting women in ways that are confrontational and sometimes uncomfortable. Inspired by her philosophy, I cut away a section of the corset to expose the stomach—an area typically controlled or hidden—while adding structural elements that allow the corset to sit off the hips rather than tightly constricting the waist.

Vivienne Westwood’s influence is evident through both the garment’s rebellious construction and its political undertones. Westwood consistently used historical fashion, particularly corsetry, as a means of critiquing power, gender norms, and conformity. She strongly believed that fashion should be a form of activism, using clothing to communicate political messages and encourage independent thought. This influence is reflected through the addition of activist badges, which transform the corset into a wearable statement. The badges symbolise protest, individuality, and resistance, reinforcing the idea that fashion can be used as a tool for expression and social commentary rather than decoration alone.

Although not a direct inspiration during the design process, the outcome strongly resonates with the Mad Hatter. As a character, he embodies unapologetic self-expression, eccentricity, and freedom from societal expectations. This connection aligns with the intention behind the corset—to encourage individuals to express themselves fully, even if it challenges conventional fashion norms.

Ultimately, this piece preserves the recognisable structure of a traditional corset while completely redefining its function. It prioritises movement, comfort, and self-expression, directly opposing and subverting the restrictive nature of historical corsetry. This project demonstrates how up-cycling and design can be used to transform garments into meaningful, expressive works that celebrate individuality and freedom.